Welcome to the ultimate guide that answers the question: what are the 10 things every man should master when it comes to clothing? Whether you’re gearing up for a job interview, a first date, or just want to look polished on a casual Friday, these rules will keep you looking sharp and feeling confident.
10 Always Wear A Belt
If your trousers feature belt loops, a belt isn’t optional—it’s mandatory. Skipping the belt makes the outfit look either impoverished, as if you can’t afford a thin strip of leather, or it suggests you’re trying to hide a burgeoning belly by giving your pants extra room. The belt should always coordinate with your shoes: black belt with black shoes, brown belt with brown shoes. The photo above also demonstrates what happens when you ignore rule #8: the jacket and tie sport patterns that clash in shape and scale, creating visual chaos. A solid or striped tie would instantly rescue the look.
9 Don’t Wear A Belt And Braces
Wearing a belt and braces simultaneously screams insecurity. The rule is simple: if there are belt loops, wear a belt; if there are none, opt for braces. Traditional braces attach with buttons sewn onto the inside or outside of the trousers, but modern clip‑ons work fine because braces are essentially underwear. Keep your braces hidden—no one needs to see them except your partner at the end of a long day. The image illustrates just how disastrous the combo looks when both are used together.
8 Keep Patterns To A Minimum
The golden rule of pattern matching is: don’t overdo it. If your suit jacket sports stripes, pair it with a solid shirt and a solid tie—this combo never fails. When the jacket is plain, you can introduce a patterned tie with a solid shirt, or a patterned shirt with a solid tie. The gentleman in the photo showcases the perfect balance: a solid jacket, solid shirt, patterned tie, and a pocket square that deliberately does not match the tie (see item 6). Keep your color palette to three hues at most; the example uses blue, gray, and tan. More than that looks cluttered.
For the adventurous, once you’ve mastered the basics you can experiment by mixing patterns—just ensure they differ dramatically in scale (e.g., a wide striped tie with a pin‑striped suit). Avoid ties with cartoons, words, or novelty images.
7 Formal Shoes
Formal footwear must have leather soles (though some winter‑ready shoes feature a rubber Dainite sole). Genuine formal shoes are never mass‑produced in low‑cost factories. They should avoid exaggerated toe shapes; a natural rounded toe is the standard. There are two primary styles: Oxfords, where the eyelet lacing plates are sewn under the vamp for a sleek look, and Derbys (or bluchers), which have separate, visible flaps. Oxfords pair best with a matching suit, while Derbys work well with more relaxed jacket‑and‑trouser combinations.
6 Pocket Square
Pocket squares are a subtle yet powerful accessory. The rule is simple: it should not be the same fabric as your tie, nor should it match the tie’s color too closely, lest the ensemble look like a pre‑matched set. The safest bet is a crisp white linen square. If you want to add flair, choose the second‑most dominant color from your tie and make that the primary hue of your pocket square. Matching the tie (except in a formal tailcoat) can make you look like you’re attending a cheesy 1980s wedding.
5 Undershirts
Your undershirt should remain hidden, much like your underwear. Either go without an undershirt or opt for a slim‑fit vest if you prefer an unbuttoned shirt look. A common error, especially among American men, is letting a tee peek out above the top button of a dress shirt—this looks lazy and careless, almost as bad as trousers sliding down to expose underwear. The photo demonstrates how unsightly a visible undershirt can be.
4 Do Up Your Tie
Never wear a loose, movie‑style tie. A properly knotted tie should stay snug, and you must button the top shirt button—skipping it makes the outfit look ill‑fitted. The tip of the tie should reach at least halfway down the belt buckle (or where the belt would sit if you’re wearing braces). The gentleman pictured follows all these guidelines, showcasing a neat, professional appearance.
3 Socks
Traditional etiquette dictates that socks match the colour of your trousers. Alternatively, you can coordinate them with a hue from your tie or another garment. For a playful twist, bold coloured socks are acceptable—just remember they’re rarely on full display. Avoid socks with cartoons or overt graphics; stick to solids or subtle patterns. The ideal length reaches just below the knee, preventing any skin from showing when you sit or bend.
2 Designer Labels
Most designer labels are overpriced and trend‑driven, meaning they’ll look dated in a few years. Brands like Hugo Boss or Armani often push skinny lapels that quickly fall out of favour. Instead, invest in a well‑crafted, moderately priced suit with medium‑width lapels and two or three buttons—this timeless silhouette can last decades. If you must splurge, limit yourself to elite Italian houses such as Kiton, Isaia, or Brioni. These names can soar to $70,000 per suit, but the quality and longevity justify the price. The image showcases a Kiton piece, epitomising classic elegance.
1 Your Only Suit
If you own just one suit, make it a dark gray masterpiece. This colour works for weddings, interviews, funerals, theatre outings, and everything in between. As your budget grows, you can add navy and brown options, and perhaps a black suit—but reserve black strictly for funerals. Remember to button your jacket while standing, and optionally unbutton when seated. For three‑button jackets, leave the bottom button undone; they’re designed that way. The photograph features Pierce Brosnan in a Brioni charcoal suit that remains stylish even after two decades.
+ Competition
It’s been ages since we hosted a competition, and this list is the perfect excuse. To enter, simply leave a comment about menswear below. At the end of the day, the five commenters with the most up‑votes will each win a pocket square from Drake’s of London, valued up to $100 USD. Browse the full selection here. This contest is open worldwide and to all genders, so get commenting and good luck!